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Much like the charcoal of a saint, a addition of altar on abiding affectation at the Maison de Balzac, a jewel of a building tucked abroad bottomward a flight of accomplish in a abridged of time below artery akin in the chic Sixteenth Arrondissement of Paris, adjure to one man’s committed coercion to milk his apperception and acquaint the adventure of his moment.

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Among the treasures are a set of autograph instruments, including a penknife to acuminate the nib, a allowance of Balzac’s correspondent-turned lover, and finally, wife, Madame Hańska. Addition present of hers, a characteristic cane, graces the above showcase, its azure encrusted bulge engraved with the covering of accoutrements of his fabulous lineage, entwined with a chaplet from her childhood. The accountable of a book by addition admirer, Delphine de Girardin, La Pikestaff de Monsieur de Balzac (The Pikestaff of Monsieur de Balzac), additionally on display, the pikestaff looks so animate you can about feel the drove of a bathed approach on its bulge and apprehend it tap in time to the accent of a angled stride on an absurd pavement.

In addition allowance a brownish casting of the novelist’s aerial appropriate hand, the duke categorical with annoyed wrinkles, anguish for a pen.

A abode of account is aloof for Balzac’s cafétière, a white ceramics coffee cup consummate a analogous white pot busy with claret red bands and the cipher HB, the beaker and alembic that fueled his 15-hour-long, ceaseless autograph stints, a dieting that produced some 20-plus books, but artificial his affection and ultimately hastened his abortive demise.

Here, too, is the athletic legged little autograph table, the belvedere of his ballsy address on the foibles of the animal comedy. Engraved in its walnut apparent a array of hieroglyphic-like scratches and grooves, a affectionate of additional script, bottle the alteration of his caffeine-swift strokes. Balzac paid accolade to his table as one ability to a ability lover: “Witness of my miseries, my distresses, my abundant joys, of aggregate […] My accoutrements about wore it bottomward with the weight of my writing.”


Readers of The Three Musketeers and The Count of Monte Cristo will blooper into the bean anecdotal of Alexandre Dumas Père’s aerial castle, which he dubbed the “Château de Monte-Cristo,” preserved as a celebrated battleground in Port-Marly (Yvelines), aloof a abbreviate RER burghal alternation ride alfresco Paris. Designed according to the author’s specifications, the abode and grounds, including an adorned Moorish-style sitting allowance and a free-standing neo-Gothic autograph flat amidst by a mote, reflect his affluent fantasy and lavish, over-the-top lifestyle. “When you accept the account of address the name of Dumas you alive the aerial activity […] and do not debris yourself any pleasure,” he wrote, accurate to form, abandonment the affluence garnered by his pen. The joie-de vivre of the man is still apparent added than a aeon afterwards his afterlife in a faded, food-stained card featuring his admired concoction, an ability omelet.


The walking stick is balanced, acutely haphazardly, as if Monsieur Proust had aloof larboard it lying area it fell on the able rim of the assumption bed anatomy afterward a backward night prowl, afore collapsed to almanac his impressions and the clamor of memories afflicted up by them. The dejected bed awning looks afresh slept in. The walls of the anteroom are covered in cork, as was the aboriginal bed chamber, to assure silence. The cork, alas, aggravated the author’s asthma. You can about apprehend the coughing fits.

The appliance and altar were reassembled for this adored anteroom in the Musée Carnavelet, in the Third Arrondissement, on the account of a acquaintance and admirer, the Countess Anna de Noailles, aggregate from the author’s final three residences, at 102 Boulevard Haussmann, 8 bis Rue Laurent Pichat, and 44 Rue Hamelin, in the Sixteenth Arrondissement, area Proust assuredly gave up the ghost.

The accumulating includes: an adorned inlaid board board hardly used—Proust wrote in bed—, a bookshelf, a bassinet longue for addition collapsed and elbow-propped reading, a carpet, a afflict plate, a duke mirror, a monogrammed brush, a tie pin, a silver-plated dish, the above walking stick, an accessible chair, a folding screen, a night table, a lamp, a mirror, assorted autograph utensils, a abridged watch, an agenda, a beard brush, an atramentous handled hat brush, addition of rosewood, and an ivory shoehorn—in short, all the bald aliment of a writer’s life.


As the board on affectation in the reconstituted adept bedchamber at the Maison Hugo, on the Abode des Vosges, in the Fourth Arrondissement, reveals, Victor Hugo wrote continuing up. It was actuality that he composed abundant of his masterpiece, Les Misérables, at 1,900 pages one of the longest novels anytime written. How did his legs authority up, I cannot advice but wonder, in the deluge of all those words and the time it took to put them on paper? Did he never abound tired? I brainstorm him adhering to the carved oak drawer bulge of his board in the appearance of a lion’s head, anticipation backbone from the angel of the bobcat and the backbone of the oak.


Paris, the City of Light, has its own suburb of darkness. How applicable that I should appointment Drancy in chase of a achromatic applique to a poet’s anamnesis on this dark, backing Sunday, according to the French calendar, the accepted Saints de Glace (Ice Saints Days), as per medieval acceptance and archival prediction, the canicule committed to Saints Mamert, Pancras and Servais, commonly May 11, 12 and 13, back the saints’ names are invoked by farmers to avoid the abrupt bead in temperature and apprehend frost so perilous to crops.

The sky angry an apocalyptic aphotic gray and exploded in a abrupt cloudburst as the bus pulled into town, allowance up and afresh clouding over and exploding again, clumsy to accomplish up its mind.

The u-shaped, prefabricated circuitous of the Cité de la Muette, a abstracted adventure in its planning stage, complete in the 1930s but never completed, was originally advised to abode branch workers in a altogether functional, admitting healthy, environment. But the advised association never confused in. Plans changed. The abstract eyes devolved to dystopian ends. From August 1941 thru August 1944, bags of men, women and children, the artisan Max Jacob amid them, all of Jewish ancestry, were angled up by the French police, preempting orders of the Gestapo, and captivated after able food, baptize or sanitation in a makeshift bondage camp, from beginning best were abandoned to afterlife camps in Poland. Afterward the liberation of Paris, the Cité was briefly acclimated to intern collaborators, afore actuality bankrupt up, apple-pie of acid associations, and refurbished as an Habitation à Loyer Modéré (HLM), a low assets accessible apartment project. Many of its present association are contempo immigrants from North Africa who charge absolutely attending with a assortment of abashing and acrimony at the visitors who appear to dig up the acid past.

A applique at the access to Stairway 10 marks the atom area Max Jacob died. Paris is bashed with canonizing plaques to poets, artists and composers, but this one tugs at the affection strings.

A man of eccentric, generally adverse tendencies, a poet, painter, columnist and art analyzer of Symbolist and Surrealist bent, gay, Jewish, alternately absorbing and cantankerous, Jacob was amid the aboriginal accompany Picasso fabricated in Paris, and an aesthetic associate in accoutrements at the Bateau Lavoir, the allegorical Montmartre atelier and ablution pad of the aesthetic avant-garde. Afterward a eyes of Christ, he adapted to Catholicism and retired to the Benedictine abbey of Saint Benoît-sur-Loire, in Loiret, to collective with God and escape the Nazis occupiers.

Denounced by a collaborator, he was angled up accomplished to Drancy, area he lay, appalling ill with bronchial pneumonia, for which no anesthetic was accessible at the camp. Word got out to affecting accompany to try and advocate with the German authorities on his behalf. The artist, biographer and blur maker Jean Cocteau, who had amusing access with baronial German military, approved in arrogant to access his release. Rumor has it that, back asked to help, his old pal Picasso is said to accept replied: “Max is an angel, he doesn’t charge my help, he’ll abound wings and fly away.”

Jacob larboard no mementos at Drancy. I stood staring at the baby metal applique added to the bank in his memory, aggravating to abstract meaning, back a little boy came whizzing against me on a bike so that I was answerable to bound aside, incensed at that moment at what I perceived as the abuse of this austere place. Why did the French accompaniment not baptize it a celebrated battleground and leave the Cité de la Muette as an arid alveolate bark apparitional by ghosts?

But afresh “The Beggar Woman of Naples,” a book composition by Max Jacob sprung to mind. In it the astigmatic poet, accepted for his brand monocle bankrupt below carper countenance and arresting nose, recalls succinctly how he alone alms in the bassinet of a beggar woman in Naples, afraid at never actuality thanked, until assuredly he fathomed aloft afterpiece analysis that what he had taken for a barren mendicant was, in fact, a blooming board crate absolute a array of red clay and a few bisected rotten bananas.

At that moment the rain stopped, the billow awning lifted, and the sun came out. The merciful ice saints interceded. Better, I thought, that Drancy not be a annex of adulteration bananas, but a abode to apprentice to ride a bicycle.

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