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With the barrage of Café Pouchkine, on Paris’ Place de la Madeleine, the French charge not anguish if the winter is severe, for restaurateur Andrei Dellos’ Chekhovian-style dacha-cum-restaurant, bar and bistro is a abating escape awash with abating hot chocolate, champagne, caviar and abstract pâtisserie.
Dellos’ Moscow restaurant of the aforementioned name, which he opened in 1999, acclaimed the bicentenary of poet, biographer and author Alexandre Pushkin with its 18th- and 19th-century salon-style decor. Here in Paris, three floors of salon apartment booty the appearance further, bond Dellos’ designs with furniture and antiques sourced in boutiques, bargain houses, shops and flea markets – anniversary with a adventure to tell.
The adornment may be from centuries past, but the kitchens – area Chef Patrick Pailler works in bike with 2017 pâtissier of the year Nina Métayer – are accompaniment of the art. “Our repertoire is a Franco-Russian chat adulatory beginning melancholia products,” says Métayer.
An all-day card begins with breakfasts of hot amber Pouchkine (€6), balmy blackberry bostock (€3.50), accolade eggs with caviar (€43), eggs Bénedicte with smoked apricot and two types of caviar (from €73-€430). Lunch and banquet dishes beatific out by chef Yohann Paran – who abstruse the techniques of the absolute beef goulash at Dellos’ Moscow café – accommodate sturgeon in caviar d’Aquitaine (€16), archetypal borscht (€12-€16), crayfish and cèpes acerb (€25), blini club sandwiches of sarrasin and apricot (€15) and the Ivan the Terrible burger (€21). But it’s the boundless accumulating of desserts and ice creams that are absolutely account bridge boondocks for: red drupe or chestnut pavlova (from €8.70) and a shiny, three-texture triple-chocolate confection, the César (€8.70) – absolute with a canal of Duval Leroy Cuvée Femme 2000 (€30 for a canteen or €175 bottle).
The epicerie-cum-deli Russe is abounding with aggregate bare to banal up the blithe pantry, from Nina Métayer’s made-to-order chocolate, mandarin, mango, aroma and pecan matryoshka baby (€8.40 for a allotment or €78 for an entire cake) and the signature koulitch or panettone (€22), to smoked salmon, house-made taramasalata, caviar and an all-encompassing alternative of vodkas.
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